Category: Cake

Apple Torte from a Great Book

February 9, 2010

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When you are a cookbook addict and you have more than your fair share of vegetarian cookbooks, what do you do?  If you are me, you start buying baking books.

I don’t remember when I bought The Greyston Bakery Cookbook and I don’t remember why.  It is a fairly unassuming looking book.  It doesn’t feature any of the gravity defying desserts that seem so tempting from other gorgeous books I have been fooled into buying.  In a moment of unremembered inspiration, I brought home this sweet book and am I ever glad I did.

In spite of the draw toward architectural and difficult desserts, the truth is that I like my sweets on the simple side.  I like the challenge of making something involved but if I am going to sit down and eat a treat, simple is better for my taste buds.  I don’t mean simple as in plain; I mean simple as in unfussy.

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If you are with me, this cookbook is a treasure.  So often when I start opening my baking books looking for that elusive just-simple-but-still-delicious cake (like this one), I start to lose interest as page after page of time consuming sweets go by.  Last night I had some friends coming over and, after our vacation, I was ready to bake.  But I definitely wanted simple.  I first picked up Tartine, the dessert book I chose for my Top 10 Desert Island cookbooks.  Nope, nope, and nope.  Then I remembered this book.  Yep, yep, and yep.  Grapefruit Yogurt Cake, Orange Poppy Seed Cake, Chocolate Obsession Cake.  All tempting, all relatively simple.

I decided on this Apple Torte.  I was a little nervous about it turning out.  I have made some of the bar recipes in the book and a fantastic cookie recipe but never any of the cakes.  It could have been a mess.  It was not a mess.  In fact, I think it was amazing.  The contrast in textures of the crunchy crust, the smooth cream cheese filling, and the soft but not mushy apples was amazing.  And taste.  The buttery richness of the crust, the fruity sweetness of the jam, the tang of cream cheese and the spiced and maple syruped apples was sublime.  This is coming from an avowed chocolate lover – it is a terrific dessert.  I’m officially changing that Top 10 list to include The Greyston Bakery Cookbook.

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One Year Ago: Broccoli and Red Pepper Pie

Apple Torte
Adapted from The Greyston Bakery Cookbook
Makes one 9″ Cake, 10-12 servings

Although this recipe is found in the cake section of the book, it is really more like a tart.

For the Crust
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/3 cup sugar
¼ tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup flour
½ cup apricot jam

For the Filling
1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
1 egg
¼ tsp. vanilla extract

For the Topping
3 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup maple syrup
¼ tsp. ground cardamom
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
½ cup slivered almonds

Prepare the crust:
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.  Grease a 9″ round springform pan.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter, sugar and vanilla on medium speed.  Using a fork or your fingers, work in the flour until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.  Press the mixture onto the bottom and 1″ up the sides of the prepared pan.  Pierce the bottom several times with the tines of a fork.  Chill at least 30 minutes.

Bake in the oven for 12-15 minutes, or until the pastry is set and golden.  Cool on a wire rack.  When the pastry is cool, spread the apricot jam evenly over the bottom of the crust and set aside.

Prepare the filling:
Using an electric mixer set on medium speed, beat the cream cheese with the sugar until light.  Beat in the egg and vanilla.  Spread the filling over the prepared crust.

Prepare the topping:
In a large bowl, combine the apples with the sugar, maple syrup, cinnamon, and cardamom.  Arrange th eapples in concentric circles over the filling.

Bake for 10 minutes, then reduct the oven temperature to 350°F.  Remove the torte and sprinkle with the almonds.  Put the torte back in the oven and bake an additional 30 minutes, or until the apples are tender.  Cool on a wire rack at least 30 minutes.  Release and remove the pan sides.  Cool completely and then refrigerate until ready to serve.

(DN: I didn’t do this, but I would recommend brushing the apples with warmed apricot glaze.  It will make them shine.  Also, I had LOTS of leftovers which I refrigerated and they still look great, so I would imagine you can make this a day ahead.  Much more than that and the apples will start to look tired.)



Monochromatic Food

January 28, 2010

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I was recently reading something about our sense of taste.  You probably know this, but it turns out that our tongue actually plays a fairly small role in our being able to taste things.  Our sense of smell is much more influential and our eyes play a big part too.  As I have become a better cook, I have paid more attention to the “eating with your eyes” part of food.  In planning a dinner party, for example, I will try to make sure that the plate has a balance of flavor, texture, and color.  Once in a while I am surprised when something turns out differently than my expectations and I have an all green dinner.  Or an all beige dessert as in this case.

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I’ve had this Caramel Cake in my dessert notebook for a long time.  Periodically I would pass it by and read, in the header, how the Gourmet test kitchen couldn’t keep their hands off of it.  For unexplained reasons, I would then turn the page.  Not last weekend.  It was finally time to see what got the test kitchen so excited about this cake.

To be fair, the cake itself is actually quite plain.  Moist and pleasant but really just a basic buttermilk cake.  The icing is where it’s at.  There isn’t much of it but what there is has terrific caramel flavor.  The recipe tells you to allow it to drip off the sides but I was really careful and tried to keep as much on the cake as possible.  Yes it’s fun to swipe your finger(s) through the yumminess that pools on your baking sheet, but it really tastes so much better on the cake.

Because I can’t leave well enough alone and because I am infatuated with my ice cream maker, I made a pear caramel ice cream to go along with the cake.  Here is a weird thing about me.  I keep chocolate, caramel, and mint in one category and all fruit in another when it comes to ice cream.  I don’t usually like those two categories to meet one another.  However, I had two pears sitting on my counter and it was time to use them up so I cross contaminated and found sheer ice cream bliss.   Pear and caramel – who knew??  David Lebovitz, that’s who.  The Perfect Scoop is full of untold treasures.

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One Year Ago: Orange Pound Cake

Caramel Cake
Adapted from Gourmet
Serves 9

For Cake
2 cups plus 2 tbsp. sifted cake flour (sift before measuring)
1 tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. salt
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature 30 minutes
1 cup well-shaken buttermilk

For Caramel Glaze
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 tbsp. light corn syrup
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Make Cake: Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.  Butter an 8-inch square cake pan and line with a square of parchment paper, then butter parchment.

Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until pale and fluffy, then beat in vanilla.  Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.  At low speed, beat in buttermilk until just combined (mixture may look curdled).  Add flour mixture in 3 batches, mixing until each addition is just incorporated.

Spread batter evenly in cake pan, then rap pan on counter several times to eliminate air bubbles.  Bake until golden and a wooden pick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.  Cool in pan on a rack 10 minutes, then run a knife around edge of pan.  Invert onto rack and discard parchment, then cool completely; about 1 hour.

Make Glaze: Bring cream, brown sugar, corn syrup, and a pinch of salt to a boil in a 2 quart heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring until sugar has dissolved.  Boil until glaze registers 210 to 212°F on a candy thermometer, 12 to 14 minutes, then stir in vanilla.

Put rack with cake on a baking sheet and pour hot glaze over top of cake, allowing it to run down the sides.  Cool until glaze is set, about 30 minutes.



Eggnog for Next Year

December 27, 2009

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I’m a little late with this cake.  Can you eat eggnog flavored things after Christmas?  I say sure, why not?  If we are all going to leave our trees up until after the first of the year, we can certainly enjoy a little eggnog pound cake until then, right?

If you don’t agree, please file this recipe away for next Christmas.  Even me, the avowed chocolate lover, thought this cake was pretty special.  So pretty, so fragrant, so buttery and delicious.  Eggnog is about the last thing on Earth that I would ever drink, even with lots of rum in it, but the flavor in the cake is subtle and intoxicating.  Spicy, creamy, and rich.  Plus the cake is easy to make and it stores well.  I got this recipe from Flo Braker’s Baking for All Occasions which is not my favorite baking book.  I have mentioned this before, but I don’t like how the recipes are laid out and I have also baked some duds from it.  But, this cake makes up for a lot.

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One Year Ago:  Penne with Greek Style Vegetable Marinade

Eggnog Pound Cake with Crystal Rum Glaze
Adapted from Baking for All Occasions
Serves Many

Cake
1/2 cup dried currants (DT: I used dried cranberries)
2 tbsp. dark rum or water
3 cups flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups granulated sugar
3 large eggs
1 cup store-bought refrigerated eggnog
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

Crystal Rum Glaze
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 tbsp. dark rum
2 tbsp. water

Before Baking: In a small bowl, combine the currants (or cranberries) and rum and set aside to macerate for 15 minutes.  Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (or 325°F if the pan has a dark finish).  Butter a 10-inch angel food pan, then lightly flour it, tapping out the excess.

To Make the Cake: Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg into a medium bowl.  Set aside.  Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-low speed until creamy and smooth, 30-45 seconds.  Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl.  Add the sugar in a steady stream and continue to beat on medium speed until light in color and fluffy, about 5 minutes, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

With the mixer still on medium speed, add the eggs, 1 at a time, beat after each addition until incorporated and stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl.  One the lowest speed, add the flour mixture in four additions alternately with the eggnog in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and mixing after each addition until incorporated.  Stop the mixer as needed to scrape down the sides of the bowl.  Add the vanilla during the final moments of mixing.  Scrape the paddle and using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the currants (or cranberries) and any remaining rum.  Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly with the spatula.

Bake the cake just until the top springs back when lightly touched in the center and the sides are beginning to come away from the pan, 55 to 65 minutes.  Transfer to a wire rack and let cool in the pan for about 10 minutes while you prepare the glaze.

To Make the Crystal Rum Glaze: In a small bowl, combine the sugar, rum, and water and stir with a rubber spatula just until blended.

Using a thin knife, gently pry the cake away from the pan to release it.  Invert a wire rack on top of the cake, invert the cake onto it, and carefully lift off the pan.  Slide a sheet of waxed paper under the rack to catch any drips from the glaze.  Using a pastry brush, coat the top and sides of the warm cake with all of the glaze.  Let the cake cool completely before serving.

(I wrapped this cake well in foil and let it sit at room temperature overnight and it was still totally fresh.  I’m sure it could freeze beautifully for at least a month.)



Chocolate Gingerbread Bundt Cake

December 16, 2009

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Yesterday I made some Holly B’s Christmas Lebkuchen in spite of a raging migraine and a younger child who woke up coughing from his nap and was absolutely inconsolable for over an hour afterward.  The cookies smelled amazing and looked, well, terrible.  Flat and brown with really no visual interest at all.  Not even a powdered sugar sprinkle was going to help out with this one.  The flavor was good but overall, it’s not a recipe I was eager to share.

And so, cake!  I got in my head that I wanted to make a chocolate gingerbread bundt cake over the weekend.  A recipe was surprisingly hard to find.  Most places I looked didn’t have those two flavors together and the few recipes I did find were just not quite right.

Leave it to Martha.  This recipe is actually on her site as bars but I figured I could double it and put it in a bundt pan.  I went to a trusty site to find out the volume of an 8-inch bar pan to see if doubling it would fit in a 12-cup bundt pan.  According to that site, an 8-inch bar pan is 6 cups.  Just right, right?  After putting the batter in the pan, I realized that it was going to be a sad flat cake.  Fortunately, I also have a 10-cup bundt pan and so the batter was switched over.  All was well in the end and the cake tasted just as I wanted it to.  Deep rich gingerbread flavor, chewy texture, and chocolate chips sprinkled throughout.  The balance was perfect.

Bundt cakes are usually very easy but they do have the incredibly annoying tendency to want to stay in the pan rather than come out and be eaten.  So here are a few tips for urging your cake out.

  • Have a good non-stick pan.  Sounds obvious I know, but if you have your mom’s old rusty pan, it’s time to replace it.  Most cookware stores carry some non-stick version and run between $20 and $30.  If you are only going to buy one, get a 12-cup.  Most cakes call for that size.
  • Grease that pan up good.  Yes it is non-stick, but please trust me when I tell you that you still need to grease it.  The non-stick surface helps but does not guarantee that your cake will pop out.  The best combo (and again, trust me here) is Crisco and flour.  Be generous with your Crisco and be sure to get the whole pan.  Cakes really like to stick to the part of the pan that sticks up in the middle.  If you are making a chocolate cake, you can dust with cocoa powder instead of flour.
  • When the cake is done, let it sit for 10-15 minutes on a rack.  Take a very thin knife (a palate knife if you have one) and run it around the outside edge of the cake and the inside part of the pan that sticks up.  Using your oven mitts, give the cake a firm little toss in the air.  It will become clear what part of the cake is still stuck to the pan so go over that part again with your knife.  Give it another toss.  If it all seems free and clear, carefully turn the cake out onto a cooling rack.
  • Remember, if all else fails and some of the cake sticks in the pan, powdered sugar can cover a lot of mistakes.  And if there is a glaze involved, even better.

Best of luck with your holiday baking and check back here in the next few days for lots more treats.

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One Year Ago:  Fennel and Brie Risotto Wedges (this is so delicious)

Chocolate Gingerbread
Adapted from Martha Stewart
Serves 10-14

8 tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, plus more for pan
1 1/2 cups flour
2 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. pumpkin pie spice
1 tsp. baking soda
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup unsulfured molasses
2 large eggs
1/2 cup sour cream
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
Powdered sugar for dusting

1.  Preheat the oven to 350°F.  Using Crisco, grease a 12-cup bundt pan.  Sprinkle with cocoa powder and make sure pan is even coated.  Dump out excess.  In a medium bowl, whisk together cocoa, flour, ginger, pumpkin-pie spice, , and baking soda.  Set aside.

2.  In a large bowl, whisk together butter, brown sugar, molasses, eggs, and sour cream until smooth.  Add flour mixture; stir just until moistened (do not overmix).  Stir in chocolate chips.  Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top.

3.  Bake until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 35-40 minutes.  Transfer to a wire rack and let sit for 15 minutes.  Run a thin knife all around the outside and inside part of the pan that sticks up.  Using your oven mitts, give the cake a firm little toss in the air.  It will become clear what part of the cake is still stuck to the pan so go over that part again with your knife.  Give it another toss.  If it all seems free and clear, carefully turn the cake out onto a cooling rack.  Allow to cool completely.  Sift powdered sugar over top, if desired.

(DT: In my experience, this type of cake freezes beautifully.  I didn’t try it with this one in particular but I wouldn’t hesitate to do so next time I make it.  Just wrap it really well in foil and put it inside a plastic bag (the type found in the produce section of grocery stores is perfect for this job.)  I think it’s safe to freeze for up to a month.  Thaw at room temperature.)



My Favorite Cake

December 7, 2009

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If you know me, either in person or via this blog, you probably know that I am not given to hyperbole.  That is, I don’t toot my own horn very often.  I will tell you when a recipe is one of my favorites or if something I made turned out well, but I don’t just sit here and tell you how great my food is.  Once in a while, I do brag, as in the case of that flatbread, but since friends and family still talk about that delicious thing, I think the bragging is warranted.

I’m sorry friends but it’s time to let the horn tooting begin.  I made this cake last weekend for my friend Lauren’s 40th birthday.  As it was all coming together, I sensed that a masterpiece was in the works.  Each piece of the proverbial pie was delicious in it’s own right so I could only imagine what the finished product would be.  Most people at the party raved about this cake but I don’t even care if they were just being nice.  I think it was one the best cakes I have ever eaten, let alone made.  And I didn’t hate making it which is saying something given my tricky relationship with layer cakes.  (Some of you may remember that I made another salted caramel chocolate cake for another friend Lauren’s 40th birthday.  This one is better.  And yes, that turning 40 thing is catching.  T-minus 7.5 months.)

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I had the very best intentions of taking photos of the birthday girl’s cake on the day that I made it, but that day was the Saturday after Thanksgiving.  We had just spent the morning with 17 children to celebrate Graham’s birthday.  While I was swimming in salted caramel chocolate frosting, I was simultaneously making a Grand Marnier cake also for Lauren’s birthday.  Pulling out my camera in the fading November light was just not in the cards.

But since this cake is so good, I have been looking for an opportunity for a repeat.  We went to a holiday party for Randy’s work the other night.  Our friends Jos and Jenn were there – fellow food lovers and actually former clients of mine.  They have been wanting to have us over for dinner for some time now and we our schedules have just not matched up.  We were finally able to agree on this past Sunday and I told them about this cake.  When Jos said her favorite flavor in the world was salted caramel, it seemed like a no-brainer.

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So yes, I brought an 8-inch triple layer cake over for a cozy dinner of four.  Ridiculous?  Probably.  But as I said I was itching to make it again so I could share it with you.  The recipe, that is.  I wish I could have shared the cake.  Actually, since I like you all so much, I wish I could have shared the meal.  Cucumber salad with pomegranates, mint, and feta cheese, spicy butternut squash soup, and tomato/onion tart with Gruyère cheese.  An amazing meal and I sat on my butt for the whole thing.  Awesome.

This go around was a little more crooked than the last but all in all, I am very pleased with this recipe.  The cakes themselves bake up nice and tall and even.  And those cakes are delicious all on their own – moist with terrific chocolate flavor.  It is always a challenge for me to decide which way to stack the cakes.  Last time I just stacked them one of top of the other and trimmed the tops every so slightly and that worked really well.  This time I turned the middle one upside down and didn’t trim and those decisions were both mistakes.  But fortunately, a lot of frosting can cover up most blemishes and this frosting is so good, you will want to slather it on generously anyway.  Even if you mistake-free layer cake master.

Now that I have made this cake twice, I have a few pointers.  The cakes themselves can be made up to a week in advance, wrapped well in plastic and then foil, and frozen.  Let them thaw overnight at room temperature.  The caramel sauce can be made a few days in advance, bring it to room temperature before using, otherwise it will be too hard to spread.  When making the caramel, be sure to use a medium size saucepan for the water and sugar mixture.  You may be tempted to use something small because the volume isn’t that large initially.  Once you add the cream, it will bubble vigorously and you need the extra space.  On that same note, be very careful when you add the cream – the steam is a big burn hazard.  Lastly, the caramel goes from just perfect to burned in about one second, so take it off the heat just before you think it is ready.  The residual heat will continue to cook it.

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One Year Ago:  Oatmeal Raisin Cookies and Middle Eastern Lentil Rice Rolls with Lemon Tahini Sauce

Sweet and Salty Cake
Baked, New Frontiers in Baking
Yield:  1 (8-inch cake)

For the Classic Chocolate Layers
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 1/4 cups hot water
2/3 cup sour cream
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup vegetable shortening
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1 tbsp. vanilla extract

For the Salted Caramel
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tsp. fleur de sel
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp. light corn syrup
1/4 cup sour cream

For the Whipped Caramel Ganache Frosting
1 pound dark chocolate (60 to 70% cacao), chopped
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 cup sugar
2 tbsp. light corn syrup
2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, soft but cool, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

To Assemble the Cake
2 tsp. fleur de sel, plus more for garnish

Make the Classic Chocolate Cake Layers
Preheat the oven to 325°F.  Butter three 8-inch round cake pans, line the bottoms with parchment paper, and butter the parchment.  Dust with flour, and knock out the excess flour.

In a medium bowl, combine the cocoa powder, hot water, and sour cream and set aside to cool.

Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together into a medium bowl and set aside.

In the bowl in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and shortening on medium speed until ribbonlike, about 5 minutes.  Add the sugars and beat until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.  Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, then add the vanilla and beat until incorporated.  Scrape down the bowl and mix again for 30 seconds.

Add the flour mixture, alternating with the cocoa mixture, in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture.

Divide the batter among the prepared pans and smooth the tops.  Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, rotating halfway through the baking time, until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake comes out clean.  Transfer the cakes to a wire rack and let cool for 20 minutes.  Invert the cakes on the rack, remove the pans, and let cool completely.

Make the Salted Caramel
In a small saucepan, combine the cream and fleur de sel.  Bring to a simmer over very low heat until the salt is dissolved.

Meanwhile, keeping a close on the cream mixture so it doesn’t burn, in a medium saucepan combine 1/4 cup water, the sugar, and corn syrup, stirring them together carefully so you don’t splash the sides of the pan.  Cook over high heat until and instant-read thermometer read 350°F, 6 to 8 minutes.  Remove from the heat and let cool for 1 minute.

Add the cream mixture to the sugar mixture.  Whisk in the sour cream.  Let the caramel cool to room temperature, then transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate until you are ready to assemble the cake.

Make the Whipped Caramel Ganache Frosting
Put the chocolate in a large heatproof bowl and set aside.

In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a simmer over very low heat.

Meanwhile, keeping a close on the cream mixture so it doesn’t burn, in a medium saucepan combine 1/4 cup water, the sugar, and corn syrup, stirring them together carefully so you don’t splash the sides of the pan.  Cook over high heat until and instant-read thermometer read 350°F, 6 to 8 minutes.  Remove from the heat and let cool for 1 minute.

Add the cream to the caramel and stir to combine.  Stir slowly for 2 minutes, then pour the caramel over the chocolate.  Let the caramel and chocolate sit for 1 minutes, then, starting in the center of the bowl, and working your way out to the edges, slowly stir the chocolate and caramel mixture in a circle until the chocolate is completely melted.  Let the mixture cool, then transfer it to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Mix on low speed until the bowl feels cool to the touch.  Increase the speed to medium-high and gradually add the butter, beating until thoroughly incorporated.  Scrape down the bowl and beat on high speed until the mixture is fluffy.

Assemble the Cake
Place one cake layer on a serving platter.  Spread 1/4 cup of the caramel over the top.  Let the caramel soak into the cake, then spread 3/4 cup of the ganache frosting over the caramel.  Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the fleur de sel over the frosting, then top with the second cake layer.  Spread with caramel, then the caramel frosting and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the fleur de sel.  Then top with the third layer.  Spread with caramel.  Crumb coat the cake and put the cake in the refrigerator for 15 minutes to firm up the frosting.  Frost the sides and top with the remaining frosting.  Garnish with a sprinkle of fleur de sel.

The cake will keep in a cake saver at room temperature (cool and humidity free) for up to 3 days.  If your room is not cool, place the cake in a cake saver and refrigerate for up to 3 days.  Remove the cake from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours before serving.



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