Category: International

Let’s Talk About Tofu

June 19, 2008


When I mention to the people who I don’t know well that I am a vegetarian, I get a myriad of responses. First and foremost, almost everyone asks if I eat fish. Somewhere I heard that vegetarians don’t eat anything with a face – last time I checked, fish have faces. Other responses: often, people ask why I don’t eat meat. Sometimes I will hear that their sister/brother/sister-in-law/brother-in-law is a vegetarian – I almost expect them to ask me if I know this relative. Sometimes they say silly things like, “Oh, you must eat a lot of salad.” (I’m sorry, what year is it again? Have you never heard of things other than salad that don’t include meat?). And sometimes they ask me, with the most incredible disgusted expression on their face, if I like tofu.

Well, yes I do. I really really do. And you might too if you knew what kind to get and what to do with it.

I think meat-eating people sometimes think of tofu as a meat alternative. Like their plate would have a steak, baked potato, and asparagus on it while mine would have a slab of tofu, baked potato, and asparagus. As much as I love tofu, I wouldn’t like it like that. Who would? Tofu has basically no flavor of it’s own and a texture that some people find objectionable, so eating it essentially naked does no one any favors. In my opinion, tofu does best in Asian food preparations where standing in for meat is natural.

Tofu needs help in both the flavor and the texture department. So let’s start with what kind you should buy. I would heartily recommend you stick to extra-firm tofu. It is less sponge-y and just more solid all around. Be sure you are buying the kind that is either shrink wrapped or packed in water and is in the refrigerated section – not the kind that is sold vacuum packages on the shelf. That is silken tofu and while it has it’s place (like in miso soup), it is not what you want for the time being.

I really like the tofu that Trader Joe’s carries and I also love this brand. They have a great option that gives you two 8 oz. pieces that are sealed separately, so if you only need half a pound, you can have it without wasting the other half a pound. (My old favorite came in 12 oz portions which was really annoying.)

One big key to preparing tofu is to make sure you get as much water out of it as you reasonably can. I have seen all kinds of directions for pressing it with heavy cans on over-turned pie plates and all of that just makes me tired even thinking about it. Who has time for that? I just take about 4 paper towels, wrap the tofu block up in the towels, and press down. As I slice it, I press it with the towels again. Removing excess moisture from the tofu will allow it to absorb more of the flavor you are introducing it to, and will also help prevent a lot of splattering if you go to fry it.

One very simple preparation (and one that lends itself well to stir-fries of all kinds), is to cut your block of tofu in to 1/3 inch by 2 inch planks. Put it in a plastic bag and pour in a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce. I like Tamari best here – it has more depth of flavor than regular soy sauce and you should be able to find it on your international food aisle. Seal the bag, and let it marinate for half an hour or so. Then, heat up a non-stick pan over medium-high heat and add just enough tofu to cover the bottom. Don’t even bother to add oil. The heat will carmelize the natural sugars in the Tamari and the tofu will develop a nice little crust and a firmer texture. Be sure to turn it over half way through.

The above photo is a lovely little appetizer that I brought to my clients E and J today. It’s great because it requires no cooking and yet has lots of flavor. If summer ever does decide to visit us here in the great Northwest, this will be a nice recipe to have on hand.

Spicy Lime and Herbed Tofu in Lettuce Cups
Adapted from Bon Appetit Magazine
6 First-Course Servings

The original recipe calls for fish sauce in the dressing. I substituted soy sauce but if you are not opposed to a little fish sauce, by all means use that. There really is no substitute for that flavor – even I have to admit that. Lemongrass can be a little tricky to find but Whole Foods always has it. It is worth searching out – the flavor and aroma are incomparable.

Dressing
1/4 cup thinly sliced peeled fresh ginger
1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh lemongrass, cut from the bottom 4 inches of 4 stalks with the tough leaves removed
1/4 cup fresh lime juice (about 4 medium limes)
2 tbsp. tamari soy sauce
2 tbsp. water
2 tbsp. sweet chili sauce

Tofu
1/2 diced seeded cucumber
1/4 cup chopped green onions
1/4 cup diced seeded plum tomatoes
2 tbsp. chopped seeded jalapeno chile
1 tbsp. chopped cilantro
1 tbsp. chopped mint
1 tbsp. chopped basil (preferably Thai Basil)
1 16 oz package extra firm tofu, drained, cut in to 1 inch cubes
6 large or 12 medium butter lettuce leaves

For the dressing:
Puree first 5 ingredients in blender. Let mixture stand for at least 15 minutes and up to one hour. Strain mixture into small bowl, pressing on solids to release any liquid; discard solids. Stir in sweet chili sauce. (Can be made one day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

For the tofu:
Combine first 7 ingredients in large bowl. Add tofu and dressing to bowl, toss to coat. Arrange 1 or 2 lettuce leaves on each of 6 plates. Divide tofu mixture among lettuce leaves and serve. (You can advise people to roll it up and eat it with their hands or use knife and fork).



Top 10 Lists

June 12, 2008


A few years ago, my brother Michael informed me he was compiling a list of his top 10 songs. He was heavily in to punk rock at the time so I remember being surprised that Steppenwolf’s “Magic Carpet Ride” made the cut. As someone who has always loved music, I thought it was an interesting idea but how to choose? There are a bazillion songs out there and I easily tire of even those that I like. I worked in radio for a number of years and having a speaker above my desk blaring music that I couldn’t turn off (or turn down) spoiled even some of my very favorites for me.

I came up with the idea that a song that truly belonged on my top 10 would be one that, if I heard it on the radio while driving in my car, would cause me to say, “I love this song!” and turn up the volume. Maybe because of my years working in radio, I am a chronic station flipper. I feel like I am sick of almost every song that comes on – even relatively new ones. But one that I am happy to hear? That must really be a favorite.

In thinking about my favorite foods, I came up with a similar strategy. There are so many things that I love – how do I know if it’s really a top 10? Now I know – if I see it on a menu, my eye goes right to it and I order it 9 times out of 10. Or if I see it in a display case (a nice one, not at Safeway), I end up with it in my shopping cart. It’s like the world get shut out and all I can think about is this food.

My list is a work in progress but I can tell you one of the very top things on there. Lentils. I love all kinds of lentils in all kinds of preparations. Soups, stews, salads, you name it and I love them. I love the good old fashioned pedestrian brown lentil, the firmer and fancier Le Puy lentil, and I love love love red lentils. Unlike their siblings, red lentils break down when cooked and become mushy but with a lot of texture and bite to them. They have an incredible buttery and rich taste to them but they are, of course, almost fat free and incredibly healthy with loads of protein, iron, and fiber.

This week I made a Stir-Fried Rice and Dal dish to go with a Spring Curry with Sri Lankan Spices (and a Cucumber Raita and a Mango Papaya Chutney). It was so good that I could have eaten it for all my meals for the rest of the week. There were a few more steps to it than warrant an “everyday meal” for me, but it made me think of another recipe which is one of my absolute favorites. This one gets extra points for being easy, relatively quick, very nutricious and for keeping well (up to 5 days!). AND it is so tasty, you won’t believe it. Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients, the hands-on time is short.

Curried Red Lentil Stew with Vegetables
Adapted from Gourmet Magazine
Serves 4-6

Vegetable Oil
1 medium onion, chopped
Salt
1 (2 x 1 inch) piece of ginger, grated or minced
5 large garlic cloves, minced
3 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 tsp. curry powder
3/4 tsp. tumeric
1/2 tsp. cumin
1 cup red lentils, picked over and rinsed
3 1/2 cups water
1 15 oz can reduced-fat coconut milk
3 medium carrots, quartered lengthwise, then cut cross-wise in to 1/2 inch pieces
3 cups baby spinach (3 oz)
1 cup frozen peas (not thawed)
1/2 cup chopped cilantro

Heat a 4-5 quart heavy pot over moderate heat. Add just enough oil to lightly coat the bottom, then add the onion with a sprinkling of salt. Stir occasionally until golden, 8-10 minutes.

Add ginger and garlic and cook 2-3 minutes. Add curry, cumin, and tumeric and cook over low heat, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in lentils and add water and coconut milk and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes. Add carrots and another pinch of salt and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally until carrots are tender and lentils have broken down in to a coarse puree, about 15 minutes.

Stir in spinach and peas and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until peas are tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in cilantro and salt and pepper to taste. Add additional water if necessary (especially if you are reheating this out of the fridge) to thin the dal so it can be ladled over rice.

By the way, here is my preliminary Top 10 Foods List. (You will notice that several faves on this list are in the above recipe – no wonder I love it so much!).

Chickpeas
Caramel
Coconut milk
Chocolate
Lentils
Watermelon
Broccoli
Curry
Wide noodles (either egg or rice – Veggie Pho can put me over the edge)
Potatoes



Gazpacho

June 3, 2008


I love gazpacho. What’s not to love? It’s cold and refreshing, has tons of flavor, is really healthy, and can be garnished to your heart’s content. And it looks beautiful. I even like bad gazpacho – you know, where the texture isn’t quite right or the balance of flavor is off.

Randy and I went to Spain for our honeymoon and I ate gazpacho every single day and sometimes twice a day. Lunch was always a bowl of the soup and a “tortilla” which is like a frittata made of eggs, potatoes, and onions. I looked forward to this lunch each and every day. It was always a little different depending on what town we were in, but always delicious. I often started dinner off with gazpacho instead of a salad because, after all, it is kind of a liquid salad, but oh so much better. Really cold, tangy from the tomatoes and sherry vinegar, sweet from the onion and cucumber, and all nice and crunchy.

As much as I love the soup itself, the garnishes really make it for me. Big toasted croutons are my favorite, but this time I also included diced avacado and hard boiled egg. It all just made a good thing that much better.

As our June gets off to a very wet start, I thought I would beckon summer with a Spanish menu. Along with the Gazpacho, I served a Vegetable Paella, Smoky Swiss Chard, and for the Dana Treat, a Vanilla Bean Flan.

Gazpacho
Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated
Serves 6-8

One of the best things about this recipe is that it is dead easy. Really all you are doing is chopping and mixing. It is a great do-ahead recipe because it can sit for up to two days in the refrigerator and needs no last-minute attention except for garnishing. To make great croutons, cut some good sourdough bread in to large (1 inch) cubes. Toss on a baking sheet with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, a good dose of kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Bake in a 375 degree oven until golden brown. I don’t drizzle my gazpacho with olive oil, but you certainly can!

3 ripe medium tomatoes, cored and seeded, cut in to 1/4 inch cubes
2 medium red bell peppers, cored and seeded, cut in to 1/4 inch cubes
1 medium cucumber, seeded and cut in to 1/4 inch cubes
2 large shallots, peeled and minced
2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 tsp. kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
5 cups tomato juice
1 tsp. Tabasco (optional)
Olive Oil (optional)

Combine tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, shallots, garlic, salt, vinegar, and pepper in a large glass, ceramic, or stainless steel bowl. Let stand 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato juice and Tabasco. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.

Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve cold with garnishes of your choice.



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