Archive for December, 2008

Back to Basics

December 5, 2008


Most people fall into one of two camps. Chocolate or vanilla. When you were a kid and you got to have a milkshake at McDonald’s, did you choose chocolate, vanilla, or strawberry? I remember wondering why on earth anyone would order anything but chocolate. I was probably 7 years old.

Times haven’t changed much. While I never go to McDonald’s (my kids don’t even know what it is, but they do recognize the Starbucks logo – even the 22 month old says, “Coffee!”), I still always choose chocolate if it’s an option. My husband would always choose vanilla and it looks like my older son is following in his footsteps. My baby will eat anything sweet at any time until we take it away from him.

In my view, oatmeal raisin cookies are the vanilla of the cookie world. My 7 year old self and my 38 year old self wonder why anyone would choose an oatmeal raisin cookie when you can have chocolate chip. But, as a personal chef, I realize that I am cooking for an audience. Not everyone has the same love affair with chocolate that I do. Plus Randy specifically requested oatmeal raisin cookies after he had a particularly bland one recently.

When making something iconic like a cookie, I typically look around and try to find a recipe that takes a classic and makes it more interesting. In the past I have made oatmeal raisin cookies that have 5 different spices in them but truthfully, they are a little much. They lose the simple and straightforward flavor and become something complicated. I figured I’d go back to basics with this one and see. Verdict? Delicious. Exactly what an oatmeal raisin cookie should taste like. A hint of cinnamon, a hint of caramel from the brown sugar, and pure sweetness from the raisins. The texture is great too, moist and chewy throughout. I would still pick chocolate chip, but this one is pretty good.

“Vanishing” Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
Adapted from the top of the Quaker Oat container

Makes 2-3 dozen

2 sticks butter, softened
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs

1 tsp. vanilla

1 1/2 cups flour

1 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. salt

3 cups old fashioned oats

1 cup raisins

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Beat together butter and sugars until creamy, about 4 minutes on medium speed.

3. Add eggs and vanilla; beat well.

4. Combine flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon in a mixing bowl. Add to butter mixture and mix until combined.

5. Stir in oats and raisins and mix well.

6. Drop by rounded tablespoons onto ungreased cookie sheet.

7. Bake 10-12 minutes or until golden brown.

8. Cool 1 minute on cookie sheet; remove to wire rack.



Seitan Bourguignonne

December 3, 2008

This is a tricky photo. Does it look like really amazing vegetarian Bourguingonne or does it look like, well, something your pet threw up? If it looks like the latter to you, I deeply apologize because this dish is truly delicious. If it looks like the former, and if you are up for a challenge, I give you Seitan Bourguingonne.

This is not an “everyday” dinner. Reserve this for a dinner party or for when your favorite vegan comes into town. It isn’t difficult by any stretch, there are just a lot of steps. But all of those steps (marinating and roasting ingredients separately) lend this stew amazing complexity. I have served it exclusively to carnivores and they are always amazed at how incredibly flavorful it is and how satisfying.

Let’s talk about seitan. Seitan is made from wheat and it has a very distinctive “meaty” texture – that is, very firm and kind of chewy. You can usually find it where you would find tofu in your grocery store or, if you have the time, you can make it yourself. (I have never made it myself…) It is very high in protein and very low in fat and really lends itself to dishes like these. When you take it out of the package it may remind you of dog food, but please do not let that dissuade you – it’s an amazing product.

The original recipe calls for an alarming amount of soy sauce which I have changed in the below version – even for me it was just too salty. Also, I have noted that which can be made in advance. The author says you can freeze the whole stew for several months and it will be just as good as the day you make it. I made this with Mashed Potatoes and Parsnips (adapted from the same cookbook) and Salad with Pomegranates and Walnuts and a Raspberry Walnut Vinaigrette.

Seitan Bourguingonne
Adapted from
The Voluptuous Vegan
Serves 4

If you have three racks in your oven, you can roast the seitan, the peppers, and the mushrooms all at the same time.

1/4 cup shoyu or other soy sauce
1/4
cup vegetable stock

2 tsp. mellow barley miso

2 1/2 cups dry red wine

1/2
cup mirin (sweet Japanese sake)

1/4
cup balsamic vinegar

1/4
cup canola oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 bay leaf

3/4
lb. seitan, cut into 1 inch cubes

1/2
oz. dried porcini mushrooms

3 cups boiling water

2 medium red bell peppers, stems, seeds and membranes removed, cut into 1 inch pieces

3/4
lb. fresh mushrooms, preferably shiitakes

1 onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 28 oz. can plum tomatoes

2 tbsp. tomato paste

1 cup frozen peas

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Cayenne pepper

Pour the shoyu and stock into a medium bowl. Add the miso and whisk until evenly blended. Add 1/2 cup of the wine, the mirin, vinegar, canola oil, and garlic and whisk together until well combined, then stir in the bay leaf. Immediately set aside 3/4 cup of the marinade, and pour the remainder over the seitan cubes. Marinate for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place the porcinis in a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Set aside for 20 minutes.

Remove the seitan from the marinade and arrange it in a shallow baking dish in a single layer. Pour enough marinade over the seitan to cover halfway. Bake 30-40 minutes, or until most of the marinade has been absorbed.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, toss the red peppers with 2 tbsp. of the reserved marinade. Spread on a parchment-covered baking sheet for 40 minutes, turning once.

While the peppers roast, remove the stems from the shiitakes and cut into 1 inch chunks. Place the shiitakes in a bowl and toss with 1/2 cup of the reserved marinade. Put on a parchment-covered baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, turning once. (DN: The seitan, peppers, and mushrooms can be made 1 day in advance and stored all together in a covered bowl in the refrigerator.)

Remove the porcinis from the water and give them a rough chop. Reserve the liquid.

Warm the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the onions and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 12-15 minutes or until soft.

Add the remaining 2 cups of wine, turn the heat to high, and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Turn the heat to medium and add the tomatoes and their juice, breaking them with a spoon. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the roasted peppers, mushrooms, and the seitan. Add the chopped porcini and 2 cups of the soaking liquid, being careful not to add the grit at the bottom of the bowl.

Add the peas, salt to taste, a generous sprinkle of pepper, and a generous sprinkle of cayenne. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 minutes to cook the peas and let the flavors marry.



Delicious Richness

December 1, 2008


Ah, gratins. I just hear that word and I think “rich”. Of course, they don’t have to be. A gratin is typically some kind of layered dish that is baked in the oven. I have made healthy gratins with beans, tomatoes and homemade breadcrumbs or with lots of vegetables and no cream or cheese.

This is not one of those gratins. Leave it to Ina Garten of Barefoot Contessa fame to make the richest creamiest cheesiest gratin I have ever had. There is no restraint here and every single calorie and gram of fat is worth it. I first made this for my clients Stephanie and Mark last Thanksgiving. As it was baking in the oven and tempting me with the unbelieveable smell of potatoes, cream and Gruyere cheese all mingling together in exquisite harmony, I resolved to make it for Thanksgiving this year. When I brought it over to them, Stephanie had to hide it from Mark so he didn’t eat it before the holiday.

I am always a fan of things can be made in advance, holiday or not, and this was great two days after it had been made. Just be sure to warm it up adequately and you also might want to put the dish on a baking sheet in case any of the cream (yum!) bubbles over.

Even if you think you don’t like fennel, do not skip it in this dish. It’s flavor is very subtle and sweet and helps cut the richness of the dish – a little bit. Do not be tempted to scale up this recipe as I did. A little goes a long way.



Potato-Fennel Gratin

Adapted from
The Barefoot Contessa
Serves 10

Garten originally calls for russet potatoes in this dish and she suggests that you peel them. I used Yukon golds and did not peel them and the texture was perfect. I also covered the gratin for the first half of the baking so it didn’t get too brown.

2 small fennel bulbs
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. unsalted butter

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

2 cups plus 2 tbsp. heavy cream

2
1/2 cups grated Gruyere cheese
1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2
tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter the inside of a 10x15x2 inch (10 cup) baking dish.

Remove the stalks from the fennel and cut the bulbs in half lengthwise. Remove the cores and thinly slice the bulbs crosswise, making approximately 4 cups of sliced fennel. Saute the fennel and onions in the olive oil and butter on medium-low heat for 15 minutes, until tender.

Thinly slice the potatoes by hand or with a mandoline. Mix the sliced potatoes in a large bowl with 2 cups of cream, 2 cups of Gruyere, salt and pepper. Add the sauteed fennel and onion and mix well.

Pour the potatoes into the baking dish. Press down to smotth the potatoes. Combine the remaining 2 tbsp. of cream and 1/2 cup of Gruyere and sprinkle on the top. Bake, covered, for 45 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another approximately 45 minutes, until the potatoes are very tender and the top is browned. Allow to set for at least 10 minutes and serve.

(The gratin can be made 3 days ahead and reheated at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes, covered.)



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